Brassiere



Aug. 29, 1967 R. GERNREICH 3,338242 BRASSIERE Filed June 4, 1965 INVENTOR Rudi Gernreich ATTORNEY United States Patent O 3,338242 BRASSIERE Rudi Gernreich, 7936 Hillside Ave., Los Angeles, Calif. 90046 Filed Inne 4, 1965, Sex. N0. 461,297 15 Claims. (Cl. 128-525) ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Brassiere fabricated of light-weight material, such as nylon-tricot to provide an unusual deg'ree of softness, flexibility, p1iability, and the characteristics of invisibility thxough an onter garment, as well as enabling the bust t in eflect appear naturally, comprising a plurality of breast receiving portions, each having an apex and a generally curvinlinear side dart efifltending from one terminal location disposed laterally to one side of the apex of said portion and wit.hin an npper half of said portion to another terminal location disposed laterally to another side of that apex and within a lower half of said breast receiving portion.

The present invention pertains, generally, to brassieres, and more particularly to a brassiere that is so constructed and arranged as to present more than adequate support for the bust, and, in addition, enables the garment to be worn in complete comfort, notwithstanding natura1 bodily movements.

The designe: of womens undergarments, and in particnlar, brassieres, is constrained to incorporate into a construction thereof such characteristics as will enable it to perform the function of supporting the breast in a desirable and comfortable position. At the sarne time, the brassiere must be aesthetic in appearance, and in particular, must not be of such a construction as to enable it to be visualized through outer garments, so that all-inall the female torso or figure will be enhanced. And, in addition to performing the functions of molding and supporting the breast to enhance the natural bodily contours, while at the same time being completely comfortable during use, the brassiere must be capable of protecting such outer garments, as well as the epidermal tissue, from irritation, abrasion and the 1ike, which may result from movement of the brassiere or undergarment relative thereto.

Heretofore, it has been considered necessary to avoid utilizing materials that are flexible and of unusually light- Weight for the formation of the breast pockets or breast receiving po11i0ns of a brassiere, since, while the material might fit snugly over the breasts, it would not have sufiicient body to obtain the form fitting qualities particularly upon bodily movement, and would not afford substantial natural suppofls for the breasts. At the same time, it has been realized that if the material is too rigid, the breast pockets or breast receiving portions Will not present the desirable and requisite characteristics of suflicient softness, flexibility, p1iabi]ity, and the 1ike, which whi1e being capable of performing the function -of adequate support will not be capable of perfonning the functions of enabling the brassiere to be worn in complete comfort at all tirnes, notwithstanding natural bodily movements, substantially completely in the absence of any irritation or abrasion to the epidermal tissue of the torso adapted to be encompassed by the brassiere. As a result, While the desire to fabn'cate a garment of this type of an unusually light-weight material has never subsided, a compromise is usually effected, oftentimes involving complicated details of construction with attendanl; increased costs cf material, fabrication, and the like.

Having in mind each and every one of the foregoing considerations, and others that will be readily apparent t0 those skilled in the art, it will be understood that a primary object of the present invention is to provide an undergarment particularly adapted to be worn upon the female torso, and more particularly, a brassiere, that is fabn'cated 0f an unusually light-weight material, and yet is so constructed and arranged as to present the characteristics of providing more than adequate support for the breasts, enabling the brassiere to mold the sarne and enhance the natural bodily contonrs of the fernale torso, while at the sarne time presenting the characteristics of being able to provide complete comfort to the epidermal tissue of the fernale torso, notwithstanding natural bodily movements thereof, and protection to the outer garments.

Another primary object of this invention, in addition to the foregoing objects, is to provide an undergannent particularly adapted to be worn upon the female torso, and more particularly a brassiere, that is fabricated cf an unusually light weight material, and yet is so constructed and arranged as to admirably perform the functions of molding and suppo1ting, the bust, thus enhancing the natural bodily contours of the female torso, while yet being exceedingly comfortable during use, notwithstanding normal bodily movements, said brassiere nevertheless having certain very desirable aesthetic characteristics, such as being invisible through an outer garment to avoid deleteriously effecting the exterior appearance 0f the female torso, and a see-through quality enabling the bust to in efiect, be presented in natures own way, while yet being susceptible t0 ordinary and conventional laundering processes without being subjected to any hannful effects.

Yet another primary object 0f the present inventio'n, in addition to each and every one of the foregoing objcts, is to provide an underganrnent particularly adapted to be wem by the fema1e, and unore particular-ly a brassiere, that is capable of fabrioation of an urmsually ight-weight material, and yet is so constructed and arranged as t0 be capa'ble o'f presenting the necessary and requisite characteristic of strength, enabling the brassiere to more than adeqnately perfonrn the fiunctions of molding and supporting, the bust, t0 enhance the natural bodily contours, while yet presenting the characteristics of softness, flexibidity and pliability, ena-bling the bras'siere to be exceedingly comfortable to wear in the absence of any irritation 0r abrasion to the epiderrnal tissue of the torso enoompassed thereby, or to an :outer garment snpported thereupon, further enabling the =brassiere to accommodate maximurn freedoun 0f natural bodily movernents, said brassiere nevertheless being capable 0f fa'brication by known hrassiere mannfacturing apparatus, procedures, techniques, and the like, so as to result in a snbstantial capital-requirement saving 0n the part 0f the manufacturer. v

A further primary object of the present invention -is to provide an undergar-ment :particularly adapted to be worn upon the fernale torso, and more particularly a brassiere, that is fabricated of an unusually lightweight material, and yet is so constmcted and arranged as to present the characteristic of suflicient strength, enabling the brassiere t0 adminably perfomn the functions of melding and supporting the breast to enhance the natural bodily contours, While yet presentir;g the characteristics 0f softness, flexibility and pliability, enabling the brassiere to be worn in complete comfort du-ring use notwithstanding natnral bodily movernents, and in the absence of irritation or abnasion to the epidenrnal tissue of the torso encorrnassed thereby, said brassiere further enabling maximum ciroulation 013 ai-r to substantially decrease the problem of perspiration and the attendant harmful efi'ects to outer ganments, and being further so cnstructed and arranged as t0 be applicable to a cou- Venti0nal brassiere with both shoulder and thorax-engirdliug straps, a brassiere with only thorax-engirdling straps or bands, a -brassiere without straps -of any kind, and to breast-supporting and fio-rming cups separate from one another; it will be -understood therefore, that a brassiere constructed in accordance with the principles of the present invention is useful in eonne ction with any to-rsoenoircling government which includes as a art thereof a brassiere.

The invention resides in the combination, construction, arrangement and disposition of the various component Parts and elements incorporated in an i-mproved brassiere constructed in accordance With the principles of this invention. The present invention will be better understood and objects and importaut features other than those specifically enum6rated above will beccune apparent when consideration is giv en to the following details and desoription, which When taken in conjunction With the annexed drawing describes, dis-closes, shows and illustrates a preferred embodi:ment 0f the present invention and What is presently considered to be the hast mode '0f practicing the principles thereof. Other embodiments or modifications may be suggested t0 those having the benefit of the teachings herein, and such other embodirnents o1 modifications are intended to -be meserved especially as they fall within the scope and spirit of the subjoined claims.

In the drawing:

FIG. 1 is a front elevational view of a brassiere comstructed in aocordance with the principles of the present invention; and

FIG. 2 is a rear elevational view, dnawn to an enlarged scale, of the brassiere illustrated in FIG. 1.

With reference 110W to the drawing, there is illustrated therein an undergarment particulanly adapted to be worn upon the female to-rso, and more particularly a bnassiere, generally designated by the weferenoe character 10, a'ud constructed in accordance With the pxinciples ofthe present invention. As shown in the drawing, the present invention is applied to a brassiere womprising shoulder and thorax-engirdling straps or bands, las will hereinafter -be described, though it will -be understood, as pointed out above, that this inventi0n is eqally applicable to a bras siere having -only thorax-engirdling straps, a brassiere without straps or bands 0f any kind, or, for that matter, any torso-enciroling goverument which inc1udes -as a wart thereof a -brassiere.

The underganment or hrassiere mompn'ses a plurality cf bust cups or breast receiving cups 12 and 14 that are particularly adapted to be operatively associated with 0ne another. T0 this and, the bust cups are disposed in a partially overlapping relationship with respect to one another generally zfrontally of the ga=m1ent 10, thus definin-g a panel 16 of -generalily diamond-shaped configuration, oomprising a multiplicity or plurality of layers of material. The layers of material comprising the pane1 16 are connected to one =another through the medium 0f double rows of stitching 18 and 20 extending along the periphery of this panel, and along the periphery of each of the cups 12 and 14 generally frontally thereof, and around towards the rear of the garment. The bust o1 breast receiving cups 12 and 14 themselves comprise a breast receiving ortion 22 and 24, respectively, and thorax-engirdling portions 26 and 28, respectively. As is considered readily apparent, the thorax-engirdliug portions 26 and 28, when taken in conjunction With the breast l'eceiving portions 22 and 24, enables the presentation 0f a complete foundation garment of this type which can properly and firmly be positioned upon a corresponding portion of the female torso to perform its intended func tions. The double rows of stitching 18 and 20, as is also considerecl readily appareut, enables the garment or brassiere to present the chaxacteristic of durability, and precludes unraveling 01 the material, hereinafter t0 be describedfrom which the breast receiving cups 12 and 14 are particularly adapted t0 be fabricated.

The garment or brassiere 10 comprises, further, a thorax-engirdling strap or band 30 which is particularly adapted to be connected t0 the garment completely along the lower peripheral edge of each 01: the cups 12 and 14. The strap or band 30 may be fabricated of any suitable material, and preferably is fabricated of an elastic material that is distensible in at least one of a plurality of directions, particularly, longitudinally thereof. This strap or band is particularly adapted to extend about and rearwardly of that ortion of the female torso particularly adapted to be encompassed thereby, and comprises at its termini disposed generally rearwardly cf the garment fastener structure (not shown), for removably operatively connecting the termini one to the other, enabling the garment tobe rernovably positioned upon the female torso, in a known manner. Shoulder straps 32 and 34, which may be fabricated of any suitable material, a1e operatively connected to the breast receiving cups 12 and 14, respectively, at the apices 36 thereof, and extend upwardly and thence downwardly towards the rear of the garment, at which location the straps are operatively connected to the thorax-engir.dling portions 26 and 28, respectively. At the rear cf the garment 10, the thorax-engirdling strap 30 comprises stress straps 38 and 40 which are opertively connected to the thorax-engirdling portions 26 and 28, respectively, of the cups 12 and 14, at the same location at which the shoulder straps 32 and 34 are operatively connected to these portions, and extend from that location to a location corresponding with the osition of the termini of the strap 30 at the rear of the garment. The Stres straps 38 and 40 are, therefore, disposed in at least a partially overlapping relationship with respect to the strap 30, and are operatively connected thereto in any suitable mauner, so that a ortion of the strap at the rear of the garmant comprises a plurality or multiplicity of layers of material. It

will, of course, be understood that the straps 38 and 40 preferably are fabricated of the same material from which the strap 30 is fabricated, though they maY be fabricated of difierent materials. Accordingly, the -garment 10 is more than adequately capable cf accommodating the forces applied thg=reto by the bust, which are transmitted from the freut of the garment towards the rear thereof at least partially by the shoulder straps 32 and 34.

The significance of fabricating a garment constructed in accordance With the principles of this invention of an unusually light-weight material has hereinbefore been pointed out. Accordingly, the breast receiving cups 12 and 14, comprising the breast receiving portions 22 and 24, and the thorax-engirdling portions 26 and 28, are each of them preferably fabricated of a material such as nylontricot, or other similar material having substantially the same desirable characteristics of unusually light-Weight, softness, flexibility and pliability, and being capable of readily circulating air therethrough. As.pointed out above, heretofore it was considered impractical, if not impossi=ble to fabricate a garment of the type t0 which the present invention pertains from a material of such light-weight, since lt was considered highly unlikely that a brassiere fabricated of such a material could properly and adequately perform its intended functions. T0 enable a brasiere to more than adequately perforrn its intended functions and yet be fabricated of a material cf unusually lightweight, such as nylon-tricot, a garment constructed in accordance with the principles of the present invention comprises the breast receiving portions 22 and 24 0f the bust cups 12 and 14, respectively, each of which breast receiving portions comprise, in cum, a dart or searn 42 and 44, respectively. The da1'ts may be fabricated into the breast reoeiving portious 22 and 24 in any suitable manner, and, for exarnple, may be defined by a row of stitching 45 that connects together overlapped portions of the material from which the breast -receiving portions are fabricated.

It has been found that in order to enable a brassiere to more than adequately and handsomely perform its intended functions, while yet being able to fabricate the garment from an unusually light-Weight material, such as nylon-tricot the longitudinal dimensional extent, the contour or configuration, the direction in Which it extends, and the location of the darts in toto, as well as the location of its termini, are cf particular importance. This is true since, as is consiclered readily apparent, the stress applied to each of the bust receiving cups 12 and 14 of the garment is exerted through the center of gravity cf each of a corresponding one of the breasts of a female torso particularly adapted to be disposed therewithin. Thus, a'nd With reference first to the dart 42, one of the terminal locations 46 thereof is located laterally to one side of the apex 36, With the terminal location 48 thereof being located laterally to the other side of the apex at the thorax-engirdling strap 30. The location of the termini 46 and 48 is, in addition, such that the longitudinal dimensional extent cf the dart is greater than one-half of the vertical d.imensional extent of the breast receiving portion 22. Still further, the dart 42 is of curvilinear configuration. Of the utmost importance, however, is that the direction of the dart 42 of the breast receiving portion 22, or its locus, is such that the dart lies wholly within the fourth quadrant of a pair of coordinate axes whose origin is disposed at the terminal location 46, as opposed to the dart being located within the first, second or third quadrants, it being understood that the quadrants of a pair of coordinate axes are denominated in a counter clockwise direction, as opposed to being denominated in a clockwise direction. By satisfying each and every one of the foregoing criteria of the dart 42, it has been found that the force exerted by the breast particularly adapted to be disposed Within the breast receiving 22 through its center of gravity will be applied to the dart, as opposed to being applied to the body of the breast receiving portion, and that the resulting stress will be transmitted along the dart to the distensible thorax-engirdling strap 30, and thence rearwardly of the garment 10 enabling the stress to eificiently be dissipated. The main or major portion, o1 body of the-breast receiving portion 22 will not therefore be required to dissipate the stress resulting frorn the aforesaid force, thus enabling the breast receiving per tion to be fabricated of the exemplary unusually lightweight material hereinbefore described, or other similar material having each and every one of the aforesaid characteristics. While some stress will be transmitted to the shoulder strap 32 and thence to the stress strap 38, and dissipated thereby, it has been found that the ability to fabricate the breast receiving portion 22 of an unusually light-weight material that is soft, flexible and pliable, and yet is more than adequately and handsomely capable of performing its intended functions, it is not affected.

The foregoiug discussion pertaining to the dart 42 is equally applicable to the dart 44 of the breast receiving portion 24. In particular, one terminal location 50 of the dart 44 is located laterally to one side of the apex 36, and the other terminal location 52 located laterally to the other side thereof. The dart 44 is of substantially the sarne curvilinear configuration as the dart 42, and, 0f the utmost significance, is located in the third quadrant of a pair'of coordinate axes having its origin at the terminal 10- cation 50, it being remembered that the quadrants defined by a pair of coordinate axes are denominated in a generally counter-clockwise direction. At this point, it will also be underst0od that the stress straps 38 and 40 assist in dissipating the stresses applied to a corresponding one cf the breast r ceiving portions 22 and 24, and particularly With respect to the Stresses transmitted along the darts 42 and 44 and thence along the thorax-engirdling strap 30, since the stress straps 38 and 40 are disposed in at least a partially overlapping relationship With respect thereto, and those stresses transmitted along the shoulder straps 32 and 34. T0 assist in dissipating those stresses transmitted along the shoulder straps 32 and 34, they Inay be operatively associated with the apices 36 of the breast receiving portions 22 and 24 by means of distensible connectors 54.

It will now be understood that a foundation garment constructed in accordance with the principles of the present invention, such as the brassiere 10, comprises a plurality of breast receiving cups fabricated of an unusually light-weight material, each of Which cups comprises, in turn, a breast receiving portion, and a thoraxengirdling portion. The breast receiving portions, in turn, comprise a dart o1: seam that is so disposed, positioned, located, contoured, and configured as to satisfy certain criteria. Specifically, each of the darts or seams are respectively disposed in that one of the quadrants defined by a pair coordinate axes having its origin at the uppermost terminal location thereof, enabling the darts to define o1 be denominated as side darts, as distinguished from being a dart or seam capable of a definition as a vertical dart, frontal dart, or a dart extending towards the center of the garment. Since the darts can be denominated as side darts, they in eflect define radii or a circle, enabling the breast receiving portions of Which they form a component art to present the characteristic of great supporting strength, while yet enabling them to be fabricated of an unusually light-Weight material, an example of Which, along With its characten'stics, has hereinbefore been set forth. Additionally, a foundation garment constructed in accordance with the principles of the present invention, being fabricatecl of such lightweight material, enhances the female torso by presenting the very desirable aesthetic characteristics of not only being invisible through an outer garment, but in eifect enabling the bust to appear as if it is ungarbed, further enabling the garment to present the bust in natures own way.

After reading the foregoing detailed description of an exemplary and illustrated form of the present invention, it Will be understood that the objects set forth as the outset of this specification ha-ve successfully been achieved. And, while the invention has been shown, illustrated, described and disclosed in terms of an illustrated embodiment or modification Which it has assumed in practice, the scope of the invention should not be deemed to be limited thereby, such -other embodiments or modifications intended to be reserved especially as they fall within the scope of the claims here appended.

What is claimed is: l. A foundation garment particularly adapted to be -Worn upon the female torso, comprising:

a plurality of breast receiving cups each compnising:

a breast receiving portion having an apex; and

a thorax-engirdling portion;

said breast receiving portions being disposed in at least a partially overlapping relationship with respect to one another generally frontally of the -garment to define a panel for operatively asSociating said breast receiving portions with one another of generally triangular configuration, and comprising a plurality of layers of material;

a thorax-engirdling strap fabricated of a material that is distensible at least in a direction longitudinally thereof extending rearwardly cf the garment having termini particularly adapted to be removably comnected with respect to one another; and comprising; i

stress straps disposed in at least a partially ov'erlapping relationship with respect thereto, and extending from a location at the termini of said thorax-engirdling strap towards each of said thorax-engirdling portions at the rear of said garment; and

each of said breast receiving portions comprising:

side darts extending from one terminal location disposed laterally to one side of the apex of said portions to another terminal location disposed laterally to another side of said apices at said thorax-engirdling strap;

said side darts being of curvilinear configuration, and

having said one -terminal location of each one thereof disposed within an upper-half of each of said breast receiving portions to define a longitudinal dimensional extent in excess of approximately one-half of the vertical dimensional extent of said portions;

said side darts being disposed only and wholly Within a particular one of the quadrants defined by a pair of coordinate axes whose origin is located at said one terminal location which would enable said darts to transmit the stresses applied to said breast receiving portions to said thorax-engirdling strap, and thence rearwardly of the garment, with maximum efficiency, further enablin-g said -garment to dissipate said stresses With at least the same degree of efliciency.

2. A foundation garment as defined in claim 1, Wheresaid breast receiving portions and said thorax-engirdling portions are fabricated cf an unusually light-weight material.

3. A foundation garment as defined in claim Z, wherein:

said light-weight material is a nylon-tricot, or othe1 similar material, presenting the characteristics of an unusual degree of softness, flexibility, pliability, and the characteristics of invisibility through an outer garrnent, as well as enabling the bust to in effect appear naturally.

4. A foundation garment as defined in claim 3, Wherein there is provided:

shoulder straps operatively associated with said breast receiving portions at the apices thereof, and extending rearwardly of the garment;

said shoulder straps being operatively associated With said thorax-engirdling portions at the aforesaid location of the garment; and

said stress straps being operatively associated With said thorax-engirdling portions and said shoulder straps.

5. A foundation garment particularly adapted to be worn upon.the female torso, comprising:

a plurality of breast receiving cups each comprising:

a breast receiving portion, each having:

a side dart extending from one terminal location disposed within a lower portion thereof to another terminal location disposed Within a lower portion thereof.

6. A foundation -garment -as defined in claim 5, Wheresaid garment further comprises:

a thorax-engirdling strap fabricated of a material that is distensible in at least one of a plurality of directions, and extending rearwardly of the garment;

the other terminal location of said side da1ts being disposed at said thorax-engirdling strap, enabling the stresses applied to said breast receiving portions to be transmitted from said side darts thereto, and thence rearwardly of the garment.

7. A foundation garment as defined in claim 6,

Wherein:

said thorax-engirdling strap comprises:

stress straps disposed in at least a partia1ly overlapping relationship withrespect thereto at a location rearwardly of the garment to assist in dissipating the stresses applied to said breast receiving portions.

y 8. A foundation garment as defined in claim 7,

wherein:

said -breast receivin-g portions are disposed in at least a partially overlapping relationship with respect to one another generally frontally of the garrnent to de- 9. A foundation garment as defined in claim 8,

wherein:

said breast receiving cups each of them further comprise:

a thorax-engirdling ortion extending to a location disposed generally rearwardly of said garment; and wherein there is provided:

shoulder straps extending from the apices cf said breast receiving portions to a location disposed generally rearwardly of said -garment, and, at that location, beim-g operatively associated With said thorax-engirdling portions;

said stress straps extending from said thorax-engirdling strap to the location at which said shoulder straps are operatively associated with said thorax-engirdling portions, and, at that location, being operatively associated therewith.

10. A foundation garment as wherein:

said breast receiving portions and said thorax-engirdling portions are fabricated of an unusually lightmaterial.

11. A foundation garment as defined in claim 10,

wherein:

said light-weight material is a nylon-tricot or othe1 similar material, presentin-g the characteristics of an extreme degree of softness, flexibility, pliability, and the like.

12. A foundation garment *as defined in claim 5,

wherein:

such breast receiving portion, comprises;

an apex; and wherein each side dart extends frorn one terminal location disposed laterally one side of the apex, to another terminal location disposed laterally to a.nother side of said apex.

13. A foundation garment as defined in claim 12,

wherein:

said side dar-ts define a longitudinal dimensional extent in excess 015 substantially one-half of -the vertical dimensional extent of said portions.

14. A foundation garment as defined in claim 13,

wherein:

said side darts are of generally curvilinear configuration.

15. A foundation garment as defined in claim 5,

wherein each breast receiving portion comprises an apex, and wherein said one terminal location is disposed laterally to one side of said apex, and said other terminal location is disposed laterally to another side of said apex.

defined in claim 9,

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,799921 4/1931 Millman 128495 2621329 12/1952 Kaufman 128465 2,755479 7/ 1956 LOCassio 128-425 2857916 10/ 1958 Garson 128-494 2882906 4/ 1959 Steinmetz 128483 ADELE M. EAGER, Primary Examiner. 

1. A FOUNDATION GARMENT PARTICULARLY ADAPTED TO BE WORN UPON THE FEMALE TORSO, COMPRISING: A PLURALITY OF BREAST RECEIVING CUPS EACH COMPRISING: A BREAST RECEIVING PORTION HAVING AN APEX; AND A THORAX-ENGIRDLING PORTION; SAID BREAST RECEIVING PORTIONS BEING DISPOSED IN AT LEAST A PARTIALLY OVERLAPPING RELATIONSHIP WITH RESPECT TO ONE ANOTHER GENERALLY FRONTALLY OF THE GARMENT TO DEFINE A PANEL FOR OPERATIVELY ASSOCIATING SAID BREAST RECEIVING PORTIONS WITH ONE ANOTHER OF GENERALLY TRIANGULAR CONFIGURATION, AND COMPRISING A PLURALITY OF LAYERS OF MATERIAL; A THORAX-ENGIRDLING STRAP FABRICATED OF A MATERIAL THAT IS DISTENSIBLE AT LEAST IN A DIRECTION LONGITUDINALLY THEREOF EXTENDING REARWARDLY OF THE GARMENT HAVING TERMINI PARTICULARLY ADAPTED TO BE REMOVABLY CONNECTED WITH RESPECT TO ONE ANOTHER; AND COMPRISING; STRESS STRAPS DISPOSED IN AT LEAST A PARTIALLY OVERLAPPING RELATIONSHIP WITH RESPECT THERETO, AND EXTENDING FROM A LOCATION AT THE TERMINI OF AID THORAX-ENGIRDLING STAP TOWARDS EACH OF SAID THORAX-ENGIRDLING PORTIONS AT THE REAR OF SAID GARMENT; AND EACH OF SAID BREAST RECEIVING PORTIONS COMPRISING: 